Fes. June 1

We woke up in Fes! And then had breakfast in Fes. And then went on a tour of Fes. Another day another city guide. We lost Khaled for a bit, but our city guide was pretty good too, even if he doesn't wear a hat. It was a driving/walking tour because our hotel is in the new town and the old town is a bit further away. (Well actually we were in the new new town and the new town was built after the old town and the new new even later). So our first stop was the palace gate and the beginning of the jumping shot. See below. The gate was also very beautiful, with several doors which were perfect for snaps. We then walked to the Jewish quarter which had been preserved beautifully, especially because not many Jewish people actually still live here, and then drove from there to a lookout over the medina. You can't see down into any of the streets from the lookout because everything is so close together that it's impossible to see anything but the roofs of all the houses so jam packed together. There are 9400 streets within the medina, some barely big enough to squeeze through. And we get excited over the laneways in Melbourne!

Jewish Quater

The green roofs and tower in the centre are the oldest university!

On the way to the medina we went to a ceramic factory, and got an incredible insight into how they create all the mosaics, pottery and tiles seen everywhere in Morocco. We were taken through the different stages of production, seeing the craftsmen and women as we went through. First was the clay pit, where one of our group members, Kim, happily gave getting in and stomping the clay a shot. Then to the pottery making, two men very quickly creating pottery, bowls and like, with such skill and accuracy, it was so mesmerising. Next stop was the decoration of the now air dried pottery, where they had these real human hair brushes to paint the designs on and then the signature underneath. The purple paint you see in the photos will turn blue when fired. We then saw the kiln, it had two sections, the bottom was for fire and the first firing, (also maybe you only do big objects here, but a lot was lost in translation), the top section gets closed off and is for the second firing and the firing of tiles. They showed us how they stack the tiles and it's basically like a giant card pyramid!  The guide also handed around a bowl of olive pips, explaining that these were what was used to fuel the fire! Next was the mosaic area. We first saw the area where the tiles are cut into all the shapes, some very intricate and seemingly impossible up cut. The craftsmen first would mark out where to cut, and then very accurately (and quickly) chip away to get the precise shape. Not only did the shape of the coloured part of the tiles have to be perfect, the they also have to taper it in at the bottom so they can be closely put together later. This was repetitious, constantly producing tiles cut the same to construct the mosaic. Finally we saw the laying out of the mosaic. This was very intriguing because they would lay the design out face down, so they couldn't see what the design they're making is, and if it's correct, as they go. They then cover the back in the grout and its magically correct, perfect. Amazing! We then got to explore the shop, FULL of so many things that we wanted but sadly pottery does not travel well.

Kilns

At this point we drove back down to the medina and magically found Khaled again. We then entered the medina. Cars can't go into the medina because of its compactness so you literally need to stick to your guide because once inside, if you get lost you possibly could never find your way out of there. But actually serious, it's the worst maze ever. So we entered and were first taken to the tanneries, via many souks and small, narrow, winding streets. We went into a small entrance then up many stairs to a leather shop. Once inside we were handed mint sprigs and then taken to a balcony where we saw the incredible sight that is the tanneries. Many pits filled with lime for the first step and then differing colours of dye, most shades of brown, and workers amongst the pits and with sheets of leather. It was very very fun and one of those, am I in a documentary right now, moments. But the mint was also useful, it smelt pretty bad. Also fun fact, if you didn't already know, they use pigeon poo in the tanneries to soften the leather, providing Moroccan leather with a unique softness. The poo apparently has a specific enzyme to enable this unique property to their leather and they claim that the Moroccan leather is the best. We got many snaps, had a browse of the leather goods and then kept going on our way through the medina.

Hammering dints into giant pots

Also side note: as the trip progressed the locals of many towns liked to give us nicknames to proclaim their love to us as we walked past. Today Sam was first, being called Brown Sugar. What a lovely name. Then Phoebe became known as Cinderalla, what a princess.

Lunch today was a treat! We again entered a very insignificant door to a huge Riad, used as a restaurant. Lunch was a banquet, beginning with incredible, the best we've had, salads. But more like a mix of entrees, some were like mixed olives, some more like a relish, others a jam or chutney. They were so so so tasty and we ate so much forgetting the whole banquet idea. Following this we had a choice for mains, we both got the Kefta tagine once more, because as mentioned before, ITS THE BEST EVER. Fried egg yes please. Then a classic fruit plate to end.

The rest of the tour was left to seeing some incredible crafts and skills within the medina. We then moved to a bronze shop. It was very cool and the salesman at this place was so good. It was such a show. He had his helpers bring out many different pieces as he explained, there were plates, teapots, and various other things, again we wanted them all because who doesn't look bronze, but sadly a giant bronze tabletop also won't fit in our cases. We then went to Medersa Bou Inania, the worlds oldest university, which is now open for tourists to look in. Again another example of beautiful Moroccan decoration within a building, remaining simple on the exterior. The last, and maybe coolest, was an agave silk weaving shop. We walked through a tiny door into a giant open room, with two looms and two craftsmen weaving on them. They were both so skilled, we managed to have a chat to one and he told us this was his family's business and that even though he had a masters in business analysis, he returned to weaving as he loved it so much. The looms were crazy, one takes 12 days to thread, and they need to re thread on average every 3 months. Also agave silk is used, rather than that produced from worms, which made it very unique.

University

Our city guide lead us out of the medina safely, losing no one, and we caught the bus back to the hotel in the new new town. Some of the group went to get a massage or Hammam, which is a traditional bath, where they scrub you and you can use some of the traditional soaps and shampoos. Also you go to baths, obvs. We opted out of this, and along with Phoebe we ate Pringles and hung out at the hotel, before venturing to McDonald's, aka Mc Do Dawdliz, for some authentic Moroccan mc flurries. Yes we did get mc flurries and maybe this wasn't the only time we did in Morocco. No Oreo though, had Mars, pretty good, not as good as Oreo, they should look into getting Oreo, it would increase sales hugely, we guarantee it. Moving on, that was our night basically, we then retired to our rooms to prepare for our 10.20am leaving time, definitely the latest leaving time haha.

Much love A&E.